Karambit Grips
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
The shape and design of the Karambit allows for a variety of Grip positions and potential Grip changes. Most teachers of the Karambit promote the concept of 2 or 3 different grip positions. The 3 major grips most often seen are, the 'classical' grip, in which the forefinger goes through the ring, and the grip holds the handle with the blade emerging from the bottom of the fist, with the blade pointing forward. The other grip would be the 'reverse' grip, in which the pinky goes through the ring, the closed hand is wrapped around the handle, and the blade protrudes from the thumb side of the closed hand with the blade pointing forward. And then, a 3rd grip position is one in which the forefinger is through the ring, and the spine of the Karambit is resting upon the 3rd finger of the hand, with the hand closed, what can be described as the 'classical' extended grip.
Neo Tribe Kali teaches a very thorough system of Karambit work. Neo Tribe Kali teaches the practitioner, all of the 3 grips previously mentioned, as part of the 10 Standard Basic grips found within our curriculum. These grips are dependent upon, how we access the Karambit from our sheathed positions, how we retrieve a Karambit from any other position, types of injuries sustained, how many weapons we are carrying in one hand, and what are we attempting to do while the Karambit is being held in a given hand. A thorough teaching of Karambit use will reflect the understanding that while the blade is in hand, we may be using more than one weapon in a hand, and also reflects the understanding that there will be moments in actual use, that a Karambit may be gripped in opportunity other than immediate engagement with just one sole opponent, and that the unique shape of the Karambit allow it to be used in ways and methods other than those found in a cut and thrust type of curriculum.
Different Karambit grips will affect profoundly which particular spectrum of striking, cutting and thrusting methods are effective or limited in scope. The 3 major grips typically taught are generally considered to be the most versatile; however, as we understand the potential of the Karambit as a combat tool we understand how important it is to practice the other variations of grip, along with their related optimum lines of cutting and attack. Neo Tribe Kali teaches dexterity drills to allow the practitioner to transition from one grip to another, in order that the students learn all the particular grips available to them, but also so that the practitioner can feel comfortable using their Karambit in a less than optimal situation.
In Neo Tribe Kali, we have practice cutting/striking drills for each potential grip that is taught to the student. In our public DVD series, we show only a limited number of our Grip curriculum, and we do show how to develop the optimum cutting/thrusting/striking lines available to use of the Karambit in a specific grip.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Kerambit and Thrusting Technique
Kerambit and Thrusting Technique
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Depending upon the design of a particular Kerambit, some are much more suited than others to deliver a straight ahead "punching" motion, or what is more commonly known as a thrusting action with a Kerambit. For a kerambit to be more effective as a thrusting tool, there needs to be sufficient acute angulation of the blade, relative to the handle. The closer to 90 degrees, the more it can be used accurately as a thrusting tool.
We understand that, the more the angle closer to 90 degrees, the greater the loss of slashing ability. In addition the increased length of blade of a given Kerambit will also effect how well it can slash and "pass through" a given target upon the body. I find that for myself, a blade greater than 3 to 3.5 inches is too long for slashing if I also have it angled appropriately for a good thrusting action. From previous articles, you all know I prefer a shorter blade length these days.
Another consideration with a kerambit designed for thrusting actions is the blade width. Too wide can look very fearsome, and will allow for a greater wound channel. The downside is, if a person is twisting or moving at the time one decides to thrust, there will be increased torque acting upong the blade. So a good grip and careful attention to the position of the hand/wrist/blade is critical to effect a good strike, especially if the target is wearing alot of gear or possibly body armor.
The technique of thrusting with a Kerambit is rather intuitive. What is NOT so intuitive and needs to be considered are the target areas one can access while minimizing the potential danger to oneself from counterattack. Consider that you thrust, and miss a vital area... sure, the target might be injured; however, we know that in real life when people are fighting for survival, they can withstand a great deal of pain and will struggle and resist back. If you've gotten your blade lodged into a target due to clothing, or bone, or possibly the physical characteristics of a given kerambit that might impede your withdrawal, you are subject to potential serious counterattack.
These are just some thoughts to consider in regards to thrusting techniques. In the future, I will be releasing an eBook on some more details in reference to these types of techniques nd considerations that need to be factored into one's training to allow for the most success in understanding the use of a Kerambit.
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By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Depending upon the design of a particular Kerambit, some are much more suited than others to deliver a straight ahead "punching" motion, or what is more commonly known as a thrusting action with a Kerambit. For a kerambit to be more effective as a thrusting tool, there needs to be sufficient acute angulation of the blade, relative to the handle. The closer to 90 degrees, the more it can be used accurately as a thrusting tool.
We understand that, the more the angle closer to 90 degrees, the greater the loss of slashing ability. In addition the increased length of blade of a given Kerambit will also effect how well it can slash and "pass through" a given target upon the body. I find that for myself, a blade greater than 3 to 3.5 inches is too long for slashing if I also have it angled appropriately for a good thrusting action. From previous articles, you all know I prefer a shorter blade length these days.
Another consideration with a kerambit designed for thrusting actions is the blade width. Too wide can look very fearsome, and will allow for a greater wound channel. The downside is, if a person is twisting or moving at the time one decides to thrust, there will be increased torque acting upong the blade. So a good grip and careful attention to the position of the hand/wrist/blade is critical to effect a good strike, especially if the target is wearing alot of gear or possibly body armor.
The technique of thrusting with a Kerambit is rather intuitive. What is NOT so intuitive and needs to be considered are the target areas one can access while minimizing the potential danger to oneself from counterattack. Consider that you thrust, and miss a vital area... sure, the target might be injured; however, we know that in real life when people are fighting for survival, they can withstand a great deal of pain and will struggle and resist back. If you've gotten your blade lodged into a target due to clothing, or bone, or possibly the physical characteristics of a given kerambit that might impede your withdrawal, you are subject to potential serious counterattack.
These are just some thoughts to consider in regards to thrusting techniques. In the future, I will be releasing an eBook on some more details in reference to these types of techniques nd considerations that need to be factored into one's training to allow for the most success in understanding the use of a Kerambit.
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Strength in Kerambit Application
How Important is Strength in Kerambit Application
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
By now it is clear that there are many designs of Kerambit available. Different physical attributes will affect the ease with which different techniques are applied. The focus of this article is upon the practitioner of Kerambit skills. Is strength a necessary factor to consider in the development and application of Kerambit skills?
It is my contention that the answer to that question is very much a definitive YES. As an example when we look at many Kerambits, and we consider their use as a thrusting or punching tool, there must be sufficient strength in the hand/wrist juncture to ensure that maximum force is transmitted into the target. With the development of thicker blade stock, wider blade profiles and often the additions of things like rippers onto the anatomy of a Kerambit, once the blade is able to penetrate a target, we will encounter greater resistance for removal, greater resistance to retrieval, and need to be aware of the various obstacles that may or may not be present upon the surface or within the interior of the target that may limit penetration.
Many of you know that I am a proponent of target practice with different mediums to prepare us for the eventuality that we may need to actually apply skills. It is a sad thing to watch a supposed "expert" with a flimsy wrist position or obvious lack of awareness of how to align ones structure behind a strike that is supposed to debilitate an opponent. By having increased strength in our bodies, particularly the hands (for gripping), in the wrist for support, and the shoulders and torso (for power amplification and if necessary, retrieval, and/or throws, takedowns, etc) we become more effective in our abilities to use a Kerambit effectively.
There is an importance to understanding the focus of our training, too. When we consider who our potential opponents might be, we need to consider their size, strength and intent as well. Obviously, if we are faced with an 80 pound, scrawny weakling, strength is not such a need. Personally, I train to fight the biggest, largest, strongest and fastest and most skilled opponent I can imagine. This way, I believe I will have the best possible chance for success if called into play. Because of those considerations, I feel that enhanced strength is a critical component to becoming an effective Kerambit practitioner.
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By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
By now it is clear that there are many designs of Kerambit available. Different physical attributes will affect the ease with which different techniques are applied. The focus of this article is upon the practitioner of Kerambit skills. Is strength a necessary factor to consider in the development and application of Kerambit skills?
It is my contention that the answer to that question is very much a definitive YES. As an example when we look at many Kerambits, and we consider their use as a thrusting or punching tool, there must be sufficient strength in the hand/wrist juncture to ensure that maximum force is transmitted into the target. With the development of thicker blade stock, wider blade profiles and often the additions of things like rippers onto the anatomy of a Kerambit, once the blade is able to penetrate a target, we will encounter greater resistance for removal, greater resistance to retrieval, and need to be aware of the various obstacles that may or may not be present upon the surface or within the interior of the target that may limit penetration.
Many of you know that I am a proponent of target practice with different mediums to prepare us for the eventuality that we may need to actually apply skills. It is a sad thing to watch a supposed "expert" with a flimsy wrist position or obvious lack of awareness of how to align ones structure behind a strike that is supposed to debilitate an opponent. By having increased strength in our bodies, particularly the hands (for gripping), in the wrist for support, and the shoulders and torso (for power amplification and if necessary, retrieval, and/or throws, takedowns, etc) we become more effective in our abilities to use a Kerambit effectively.
There is an importance to understanding the focus of our training, too. When we consider who our potential opponents might be, we need to consider their size, strength and intent as well. Obviously, if we are faced with an 80 pound, scrawny weakling, strength is not such a need. Personally, I train to fight the biggest, largest, strongest and fastest and most skilled opponent I can imagine. This way, I believe I will have the best possible chance for success if called into play. Because of those considerations, I feel that enhanced strength is a critical component to becoming an effective Kerambit practitioner.
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Kerambit and Sheathing
Kerambit and Sheaths and Carry
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
I have seen many different types of sheaths used to holster and make a Kerambit accessible to its user. I've handled a variety of sheath materials that were used ranging from string, to a coat hanger, to cloth, wood, leather and different types of kydex or synthetic materials. A Kerambit due to its unique shape poses some unique sheathing solutions.
My own personal preference is leather. I find leather wears much more comfortably and is much quieter in use than Kydex. In the warmer weather I find that kydex is uncomfortable and that this material sometimes "pinches" or "pokes" more so than leather. Kydex definitely has advantages in providing different types of carry.
To carry a fixed blade Kerambit it is important to consider first what material will be chosen for the sheath, and then how would it be positioned for easy access while retaining security so that it doesn't easily get lost in one's day to day activities. Kydex is nice with modern Kerambits usually offering the most security in carry. I often see my students carrying their Kerambits in an upside down, ring and handle hanging downward upon their persons, whether it be on a suspension around the neck or beneath the shoulder/arm via a figure 8 or other such type of harness.
Learning how to sheath, make sheaths, and learning how to comfortably carry, and practice of access to the Kerambit blade has been challenging over the years. Like all the other aspects of learning about a Kerambit, and understanding and appreciating application, sheath and carry options are necessary components to study and research. In the near future I will be offering my sheathing options to the public and those interested in ordering sheaths to meet their own individual needs for their Kerambit use. In the meantime, good luck!
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By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
I have seen many different types of sheaths used to holster and make a Kerambit accessible to its user. I've handled a variety of sheath materials that were used ranging from string, to a coat hanger, to cloth, wood, leather and different types of kydex or synthetic materials. A Kerambit due to its unique shape poses some unique sheathing solutions.
My own personal preference is leather. I find leather wears much more comfortably and is much quieter in use than Kydex. In the warmer weather I find that kydex is uncomfortable and that this material sometimes "pinches" or "pokes" more so than leather. Kydex definitely has advantages in providing different types of carry.
To carry a fixed blade Kerambit it is important to consider first what material will be chosen for the sheath, and then how would it be positioned for easy access while retaining security so that it doesn't easily get lost in one's day to day activities. Kydex is nice with modern Kerambits usually offering the most security in carry. I often see my students carrying their Kerambits in an upside down, ring and handle hanging downward upon their persons, whether it be on a suspension around the neck or beneath the shoulder/arm via a figure 8 or other such type of harness.
Learning how to sheath, make sheaths, and learning how to comfortably carry, and practice of access to the Kerambit blade has been challenging over the years. Like all the other aspects of learning about a Kerambit, and understanding and appreciating application, sheath and carry options are necessary components to study and research. In the near future I will be offering my sheathing options to the public and those interested in ordering sheaths to meet their own individual needs for their Kerambit use. In the meantime, good luck!
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Kerambit EDC
Karambit and EDC
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
On the internet, EDC are initials that have come to stand for Every Day Carry. Karambits are good choices for EDC due to its generally overall smaller size as compared to most fixed straight blades. Many individuals that might balk at the idea of carrying a straight fixed blade find that the ease of EDC with a Karambit is much more reasonable. The shape and size of the majority of Karambits available plus modern methods of sheathing options further enhance the ease of Karambit EDC.
The popular carry locations for Karambit EDC are usually, neck carry (via a cord and a secure kydex sheath), under the arm on either side of the body (via various shoulder harness setups), and inside the waistband of one's pants. The inside the waistband carry is the most comfortable and easiest set up to get used to wearing. When carrying inside the waistband, many users opt for the strong-side carry, and a few will choose the cross-draw position.
Kydex is a modern material, synthetic that is heat molded to retain the Karambit in a secure position. Kydex is generally light weight and allows for less material to be used in its formation, and that makes for an overall smaller package to contain. The problems with kydex are occasional points of pressure upon the wearer's body, and heat. In hotter climates and conditions the use of kydex may cause discomfort due to sweating and moisture, especially with neck carry. Personally, I prefer the use of leather, but find that the use of leather limits the EDC possibilities. On the plus side, leather tends to wear more comfortably, and is quieter than kydex.
Once a desired carry position is found, in conjunction with the choice of one's ideal sheathing material, there has to be practice directed towards accessing and drawing of one's Karambit from the sheathed and holstered position. With regular practice an indidual can learn how to quickly access and retrieve their Karambit in times of need reliably.
It is clear that as a choice for knife EDC, a Karambit seriously deserves consideration. Its smaller size, availability of sheathing materials, and options for access upon different locations upon one's person makes the Karambit user-friendly for EDC.
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By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
On the internet, EDC are initials that have come to stand for Every Day Carry. Karambits are good choices for EDC due to its generally overall smaller size as compared to most fixed straight blades. Many individuals that might balk at the idea of carrying a straight fixed blade find that the ease of EDC with a Karambit is much more reasonable. The shape and size of the majority of Karambits available plus modern methods of sheathing options further enhance the ease of Karambit EDC.
The popular carry locations for Karambit EDC are usually, neck carry (via a cord and a secure kydex sheath), under the arm on either side of the body (via various shoulder harness setups), and inside the waistband of one's pants. The inside the waistband carry is the most comfortable and easiest set up to get used to wearing. When carrying inside the waistband, many users opt for the strong-side carry, and a few will choose the cross-draw position.
Kydex is a modern material, synthetic that is heat molded to retain the Karambit in a secure position. Kydex is generally light weight and allows for less material to be used in its formation, and that makes for an overall smaller package to contain. The problems with kydex are occasional points of pressure upon the wearer's body, and heat. In hotter climates and conditions the use of kydex may cause discomfort due to sweating and moisture, especially with neck carry. Personally, I prefer the use of leather, but find that the use of leather limits the EDC possibilities. On the plus side, leather tends to wear more comfortably, and is quieter than kydex.
Once a desired carry position is found, in conjunction with the choice of one's ideal sheathing material, there has to be practice directed towards accessing and drawing of one's Karambit from the sheathed and holstered position. With regular practice an indidual can learn how to quickly access and retrieve their Karambit in times of need reliably.
It is clear that as a choice for knife EDC, a Karambit seriously deserves consideration. Its smaller size, availability of sheathing materials, and options for access upon different locations upon one's person makes the Karambit user-friendly for EDC.
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Smaller Kerambits
The Call for Smaller Kerambits
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Kerambit players in today's modern tactical world need to follow the same considerations that any serious knifer would. Training clearly is important. Realistically, not everyone can access training in regular classes. Fortunately there are many videos and book sources available to the consumer looking to gain an education in the use of a kerambit. The more educated we become, the more critical we can be of our kerambit designs.
I see more and more Larger and Heavier kerambits being brought into the market. Often I have been told that is to accommodate those consumers who have larger hand sizes. As mentioned before in the prior article on kerambit design, the bigger the design, the more difficult it is to carry and conceal. In traditional use, a kerambit was meant to be a concealed weapon. It was meant to be used with stealth and with deception in mind. Smaller designed kerambits allow us to more closely identify with the roots of this unique knife.
I also find in my studies that a smaller kerambit can actually have MORE of the available features that anyone could want, and allow more effective use than some of the larger designs. As an example, a smaller kerambit can have a more curved blade, yet, because it is smaller, it can be used in more of a linear fashion without snagging or catching on an obstruction like a larger bladed kerambit would. By having the smaller blade, with more of an acute angled orientation, it works well for extension and retraction, with less chance of injury to oneself. And as mentioned before, a smaller kerambit is easier to carry and conceal on a regular basis.
As an instructor, I feel a sense of responsibility for what I pass onto my students. With a shorter blade, it is less easy to cause a permanent lethal effect on an opponent. It is possible to be lethal, but now, the intent and will to cause such harm must truly be there to effect that. Otherwise, it remains a powerful tool for self-defense and discouraging continued aggression by an opponent.
Finally, smaller kerambits generally mean less steel and less work for the maker, and that translates into lower cost, for you, the consumer. Save money on one kerambit, and that'll leave you more money for the next one!
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By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Kerambit players in today's modern tactical world need to follow the same considerations that any serious knifer would. Training clearly is important. Realistically, not everyone can access training in regular classes. Fortunately there are many videos and book sources available to the consumer looking to gain an education in the use of a kerambit. The more educated we become, the more critical we can be of our kerambit designs.
I see more and more Larger and Heavier kerambits being brought into the market. Often I have been told that is to accommodate those consumers who have larger hand sizes. As mentioned before in the prior article on kerambit design, the bigger the design, the more difficult it is to carry and conceal. In traditional use, a kerambit was meant to be a concealed weapon. It was meant to be used with stealth and with deception in mind. Smaller designed kerambits allow us to more closely identify with the roots of this unique knife.
I also find in my studies that a smaller kerambit can actually have MORE of the available features that anyone could want, and allow more effective use than some of the larger designs. As an example, a smaller kerambit can have a more curved blade, yet, because it is smaller, it can be used in more of a linear fashion without snagging or catching on an obstruction like a larger bladed kerambit would. By having the smaller blade, with more of an acute angled orientation, it works well for extension and retraction, with less chance of injury to oneself. And as mentioned before, a smaller kerambit is easier to carry and conceal on a regular basis.
As an instructor, I feel a sense of responsibility for what I pass onto my students. With a shorter blade, it is less easy to cause a permanent lethal effect on an opponent. It is possible to be lethal, but now, the intent and will to cause such harm must truly be there to effect that. Otherwise, it remains a powerful tool for self-defense and discouraging continued aggression by an opponent.
Finally, smaller kerambits generally mean less steel and less work for the maker, and that translates into lower cost, for you, the consumer. Save money on one kerambit, and that'll leave you more money for the next one!
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Kerambit Design Considerations
Kerambit Design Considerations
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Kerambits generally have a few identifying features. These features are the handle, a ring, and a blade, usually somewhat curved in shape. There are clearly differences between classical and traditional designs from Southeast Asia, and the modern ones we see manufactured today. Due to availability of CNC machines, and synthetics, and information available to us, we see many more variations, and shapes and many kerambits today are very sleek, some are very heavy, and some have very fearsome appearances as well.
A collector, who is NOT a user, will be happy with any kerambit that may strike his or her fancy. Visually, what is present may be more important than function, when considering and examining a kerambit design. For someone who trains with and intends to actually carry, and/or use his or her kerambit, it is important to understand and know why differences in design will impact them in terms of carry efficiency and also combat effectiveness.
The first consideration is comfort. Does the kerambit feel good in the hand? Comfort is a result of a successful integration of all the elements that make a kerambit a kerambit.
The ring dimensions can vary from small to very large. If the ring is too small, extension and retraction techniques ma be difficult to perform. If the ring is too large, and the kerambit heavy, that may cause bruising or discomfort to the forefinger which is retaining the kerambit in place. Ring placement is also a key factor. Is the ring slightly offset, or is it directly in line with the handle. Various types of ring placement will effect and impact upon the effectiveness in using the kerambit as an impact tool, and may also affect the ease of extension and retraction, and also oneís own margin of safety with practice using a live blade.
Handle design is important to comfort. Is the handle narrow, or thick? If you plan to do twisting types of maneuvers, a wider handle works better than one that is narrow. Got long fingers? Narrow handles wonít work as well for you, shorter fingers, the opposite is true. How curved is the handle? Too curved a handle wonít fit comfortably for thrusting as much as one, which is straighter. Are there finger grooves or no? Do you need them? If you plan to alter grips from thrusting, to striking to impacting with the ring, subtle changes will be made where; grooves will assist in managing the kerambit effectively. How long is the grip? What materials are used on the handle? Synthetics can be soft and smooth, or can be worked to make them more contoured or textured to allow for better control when the hands are wet or slippery. Natural materials such as ivory, or stag, or bone, woods, all have different characteristics as well.
Blade length is often overlooked. Does one want a longer or a shorter blade? Do you perceive your intentions in carrying the blade as ëdefensive,í or as ëoffensive?í Do you plan to thrust a great deal or slash more? Do you intend to strike at right angles with the elbows directing movement, or will you be more straight armed in your maneuvers? How do you intend to stop an individual? Will you go to dissuade, or defang the snake? Or, will you try to Kill the Snake? Are you concerned with legal issues in your area in reference to blade length? The longer the blade, the more difficult it is to sheath, and to carry on oneís person.
Single edge blade or double-edged blade? Which do you want, and why? Most people are not aware, but with appropriate shape and design, a single edge blade can still penetrate flesh and some hard objects even when using the non-sharpened secondary edge.
In many Kerambits, we see rippers. These look fierce and often aggressive, but do you need them? Our targets are within the body. Understand that the presence of some of these rippers may impede speed of cutting and tearing once INSIDE the body. If youíre not strong enough, would you be able to hang on or manage to manipulate your kerambit effectively?
Considerations of strength bring into play the awareness of weight of the Kerambit. The heavier it is the less likely youíll carry it on a regular basis. If the kerambit is too light, there may not be sufficient motion for the kerambit to penetrate flesh appropriately when doing extension strikes.
When considering extension strikes, we need to concern ourselves with blade length and angle of the blade relative to the handle. If the blade is angled sufficiently, penetration can be enhanced. But if the blade is angled more, it is again; more difficult to sheath, and withdraw from a sheath, and depending upon the shape of the secondary edge, may not be useful for striking downwards in a hammer fist motion. If the blade is too long, it may not work well to direct the point in towards a target when considering extension movements again.
From this brief and short article, we come to realize that the more we know and understand our tools, the better we can decide which tool is best for each of us given the circumstances we have to work with. We also can clearly see the need for specialized raining to make sure we can make the most effective use out of the tools we have at hand.
As you make all your considerations, it is evident that many designs are lacking, and some are true gems.
By Guro Jeff Chung
2007
Kerambits generally have a few identifying features. These features are the handle, a ring, and a blade, usually somewhat curved in shape. There are clearly differences between classical and traditional designs from Southeast Asia, and the modern ones we see manufactured today. Due to availability of CNC machines, and synthetics, and information available to us, we see many more variations, and shapes and many kerambits today are very sleek, some are very heavy, and some have very fearsome appearances as well.
A collector, who is NOT a user, will be happy with any kerambit that may strike his or her fancy. Visually, what is present may be more important than function, when considering and examining a kerambit design. For someone who trains with and intends to actually carry, and/or use his or her kerambit, it is important to understand and know why differences in design will impact them in terms of carry efficiency and also combat effectiveness.
The first consideration is comfort. Does the kerambit feel good in the hand? Comfort is a result of a successful integration of all the elements that make a kerambit a kerambit.
The ring dimensions can vary from small to very large. If the ring is too small, extension and retraction techniques ma be difficult to perform. If the ring is too large, and the kerambit heavy, that may cause bruising or discomfort to the forefinger which is retaining the kerambit in place. Ring placement is also a key factor. Is the ring slightly offset, or is it directly in line with the handle. Various types of ring placement will effect and impact upon the effectiveness in using the kerambit as an impact tool, and may also affect the ease of extension and retraction, and also oneís own margin of safety with practice using a live blade.
Handle design is important to comfort. Is the handle narrow, or thick? If you plan to do twisting types of maneuvers, a wider handle works better than one that is narrow. Got long fingers? Narrow handles wonít work as well for you, shorter fingers, the opposite is true. How curved is the handle? Too curved a handle wonít fit comfortably for thrusting as much as one, which is straighter. Are there finger grooves or no? Do you need them? If you plan to alter grips from thrusting, to striking to impacting with the ring, subtle changes will be made where; grooves will assist in managing the kerambit effectively. How long is the grip? What materials are used on the handle? Synthetics can be soft and smooth, or can be worked to make them more contoured or textured to allow for better control when the hands are wet or slippery. Natural materials such as ivory, or stag, or bone, woods, all have different characteristics as well.
Blade length is often overlooked. Does one want a longer or a shorter blade? Do you perceive your intentions in carrying the blade as ëdefensive,í or as ëoffensive?í Do you plan to thrust a great deal or slash more? Do you intend to strike at right angles with the elbows directing movement, or will you be more straight armed in your maneuvers? How do you intend to stop an individual? Will you go to dissuade, or defang the snake? Or, will you try to Kill the Snake? Are you concerned with legal issues in your area in reference to blade length? The longer the blade, the more difficult it is to sheath, and to carry on oneís person.
Single edge blade or double-edged blade? Which do you want, and why? Most people are not aware, but with appropriate shape and design, a single edge blade can still penetrate flesh and some hard objects even when using the non-sharpened secondary edge.
In many Kerambits, we see rippers. These look fierce and often aggressive, but do you need them? Our targets are within the body. Understand that the presence of some of these rippers may impede speed of cutting and tearing once INSIDE the body. If youíre not strong enough, would you be able to hang on or manage to manipulate your kerambit effectively?
Considerations of strength bring into play the awareness of weight of the Kerambit. The heavier it is the less likely youíll carry it on a regular basis. If the kerambit is too light, there may not be sufficient motion for the kerambit to penetrate flesh appropriately when doing extension strikes.
When considering extension strikes, we need to concern ourselves with blade length and angle of the blade relative to the handle. If the blade is angled sufficiently, penetration can be enhanced. But if the blade is angled more, it is again; more difficult to sheath, and withdraw from a sheath, and depending upon the shape of the secondary edge, may not be useful for striking downwards in a hammer fist motion. If the blade is too long, it may not work well to direct the point in towards a target when considering extension movements again.
From this brief and short article, we come to realize that the more we know and understand our tools, the better we can decide which tool is best for each of us given the circumstances we have to work with. We also can clearly see the need for specialized raining to make sure we can make the most effective use out of the tools we have at hand.
As you make all your considerations, it is evident that many designs are lacking, and some are true gems.
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